Crumbs in my 'Stache: Crumbs turns back the clock

Wednesday, January 06, 2010

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-Crumbs in my ‘Stache went on a brief hiatus this week. In place of a new column, we are running what is believed to be the earliest example of a Crumbs piece in existence. This one dates from October 2007. Notice the humility, reverence, and straightforward food news reporting the columnist still demonstrated at this time. The egotistical monster he has became will return soon.

It is a rare day that Bob and Barbara Vandeburg miss lunch at the Senior Center. Bob estimated the couple has been coming to the lunch for more than 10 years.

Like many of the frequent diners at the center, the Vandeburgs have a regular spot they share with a group of friends, each person often sit at the same place around the table.

“If we can beat them to it,” Bob joked.
For a nominal price of $3, the center serves meals to Jackson’s 60-plus population that are usually hot and always healthy.  Friends or anyone with a smile  can dine for $7, which covers a full plate, milk, coffee and dessert.

Senior Center director Connie Owen said the center does try to compete with Jackson restaurants, but the community is welcome to have lunch (with an RSVP that day by 10 a.m.), especially if you bring along a person in the over-60 demographic.

The center averages about 85 meals a day – that number drops in the off-season – which includes 25 “Meals on Wheels” served mostly to the homebound elderly. About 60 people ate meals prepared by the center last Monday.

Armando Perfecto is the head chef. Perfecto said he enjoys the warm familiarity with his regular clientele and the home-cooking approach to the center’s cuisine.  Perfecto has worked in the kitchens of some of Jackson Hole’s finer eateries, including the Amangani, Spring Creek Ranch and Stiegler’s.

“It’s a very different situation here,” Perfecto said. “The people here need a little more attention, but they treat us good, and they like the food.”

Monday’s menu featured Swiss steak, which, contrary to what its name suggests, has nothing to do with Alpine fare. “Swissing”  refers to a process for tenderizing cube steak, and is often prepared with a thick, brown sauce.

Perfecto’s version of the dish had carrots and a tomato base in a floury, almost stew-like concoction. Flavorful, fork-tender and hearty, the dish was served with steamed rice and came as a nice-sized portion. It wasn’t exactly the bland dish one might associate with a memory of eating with grandma at the old folk’s home.

“This is not exactly your normal senior center,” said Owen, who emphasized that she did not intend the comment to seem derisive of other senior centers.

With a menu that changes monthly and aims for quality, Owen seemed to suggest that the food is one part of maintaining a quality of life into the retirement years. “We like the food here to stand on its own,” she said.

The center’s dining program includes a dietician, and recipes must adhere to dietary guidelines that incorporate reduced-fat ingredients and are high protein.
“We have the best cooks,” declared senior June Heinbuch.

“All of the food is good,” said Bob Shervin, board president for the center, who on Monday sat at the same table as the Vandeburgs. He added,“and it’s still the best meal in town for the price.”

The conservative menu features cafeteria-style staples but improves on the notion with fresh ingredients and hand-made preparations. This week will see chicken nuggets served with oven-browned Parmesan potatoes, spaghetti with French bread (baked in-house) and, on Friday, an autumn feast of roast turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, cornbread stuffing and pumpkin pie with a whipped topping.
Owen said the spread should draw plenty of diners because many of the seniors are “potatoes and gravy people.” JHW

The Senior Center is located at 830 E. Hansen. $7. 733-7300.

COURTESY FILE PHOTO
The columnist in an undated photo, found with early works.

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Crumbs in my 'Stache: Crumbs turns back the clock | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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