Crumbs in my 'Stache: Keeping hip on a budget

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-It’s hard to be expected to write something about food, dear reader, when you’re arrested by a cold, as I have been. But just as I’d begun to accept that I would have to either A.) write some missive about what it meant for the Saints to win the Super Bowl, or B.) convince my editor to rerun a Crumbs from yesteryear, the cold broke and my sense of taste mostly returned.
I was hungry.

But before we go any further, let me tell you about what it meant for the New Orleans Saints to win the Super Bowl. Aw shucks, I wouldn’t really do that to you. I’m not even entirely sure what it all means. But somebody let me know if it means some new food inspired by (or shipped from) New Orleans arrives in time for Mardi Gras.

These days, a lot of the town is jazzed about Ignight, the new bistro inside the old Chef’s Table.

Ignight is the latest venture of Joe Rice, the restaurant owner who has done very well with Merry Piglets and Sidewinders. But where those two served everyman food in a family-friendly atmosphere, Ignight veers into more sophisticated urban territory that could almost be called, well, chic. The bar/restaurant only permits people over 21, removing any uncertainty about whether to bring the whole family.
A major redesign of the interior gives Ignight a look and feel that is unique in the valley. Banquettes arch attractively to the ceiling, with tables separated by seafoam green fabric that suggests an air of privacy rather than actually blocking sight and sound. The bar top, which dominates the center of the dining room, is an illuminated neon yellow surface. The decor is hip but safe. It doesn’t challenge you or progress any dialogue about how to create edgy interiors for small towns. Nevertheless, on first impression, the look struck me as a welcome change of pace for Jackson Hole.

The Ignight menu features an eclectic assortment of starters, tapas, sandwiches and sushi. But there’s one thing about Ignight that doesn’t feel at all metropolitan: the price. With most items below a $15 price point, and many of them hovering around $10, it’s probably the most affordable restaurant with a glowing bar in the valley.

Two of us ordered smorgasbord sampler of flank steak flat bread, seafood ceviche, a specialty sushi roll and braised ribs.

The flat bread was great, with a fine thin crust that made it similar to gourmet wood over pizza.

We enjoyed the ceviche, although the name was a bit of a misnomer. The shrimp and tuna had been cooked with heat (a server confirmed this), although you could taste some of the flavors of ceviche, or fish that has been delicately cured by the acid in citrus juice. More like pseudo ceviche, or ceviche-for-people-who-aren’t-sure-if-they-like-actual-ceviche. But, as I said, it tasted fine.

The ribs were great – tender and flavorful, if served on the side of room temperature. And the tasty Ignight roll, with tuna, soft shell crab and some kind of ailoli, could’ve had some asparagus, which would explain the funny smell my pee had later.

Ignight offers a specialty cocktail menu created by a hip mixologist brought in from San Diego, although I didn’t order anything from it on this first visit. A door beside the bar opens into the adjacent package store Rice owns, where guests can select a bottle of wine to go with dinner without a corkage fee, adding another opportunity for value.

I expect a lot of people in this community are ready to embrace Ignight for bringing something fresh and economical to Jackson Hole. JHW

Ignight is located at 945 W. Broadway. $6-$25. 734-1997.

Courtesy photo
The Ignight Roll

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Crumbs in my 'Stache: Keeping hip on a budget | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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