Slim's Pickins: Dining on the Butte

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

By Tyler Alford

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-My younger brother, Davis, who made a name for himself last summer as ‘The Most Epic 90-Day Wonder Ever,’ in some circles, came to visit for the week leading up to Independence Day this year.

I had received an invitation from Jason Mitchell, executive chef of The Granary Restaurant at Spring Creek Ranch to enjoy his new summer menu in June and his was polite enough to let me rain check until my brother arrived. So, on a beautiful Jackson Hole Wednesday evening, I put on a linen suit vest and Davis borrowed a camel hair jacket and we took a ride up to Spring Creek Ranch to fill our reservation and make good on this gracious invitation.

I have known Mitchell since I worked at the Stone Table when he would come into the kitchen to help with prep or to clean on busy nights. Then, he would be dressed in street clothes, operate with an air of relaxed focus, yet still wield a knife with the precision, confidence and skill of a vascular surgeon.

Not knowing he was a classically trained chef, I asked him to cut me a dozen limes for the bar as we were setting up for a large scale private party. Less than two minutes later he handed my a container full of wedges that were perfectly even with the appropriate slits in the middle for garnish.

These days, I see him riding his blue BMW motorcycle, grinning from a tour in the park, and he always stops, yells my name and gives a friendly wave.

Walking into The Granary you feel a similar sense of friendliness. A long boardwalk leading to the entrance reminded me of restaurants on the coast of North Carolina that Davis and I visited with our parents when we were younger. A cute, young hostess showed us to a table on a deck outside, where the sun baked the valley below, creeks and birds cutting angles to and from the mountains of Grand Teton National Park as we enjoyed a pre-dinner chardonnay.

Our table  in the main dining area was equally as scenic, with both our chairs aiming through   the 12-plus foot windows that stretch ceiling to floor.

We ordered a ‘chef’s choice’ of plates. First, the lamb appetizer: two cuts of rack seared beautifully and served over a watercress and strawberry salad. Many places in town serve lamb, but only The Granary, as far as I know, serves it as an appetizer. The next course was a cucumber and pomegranate soup, served with a bottle of the chef’s choice of wine. The Pine Ridge viognier with a light body and floral notes that paired perfectly with the chilled soup, topped with saffron, a spice that requires a great deal of training and respect to use properly. The garnet threads slowly seeped into the soup giving it another layer of complexity and adding to the subtle flavor of the cucumber. I wanted to ask for another cup, but restrained myself.

Our entrees included a combination of chef’s specials: grilled North Atlantic lobster tail and Pacific Ono served over a shrimp risotto. This dishes again paired perfectly with our wine and was a delicious display of Mitchell’s love of fresh seafood.

He joined us for a few short moments during our entree course to share a glass of wine and get out of the sweltering triple-degree kitchen that is his studio. We talked about his son and he showed a similar passion and excitement when we talked about the food he had served us. He explained that his philosophy focuses on ‘simple flavors done well.’

As another large table came to be sat, he jumped from his chair and resumed his duties, also sending us dessert, then we sat in the bar for scotch as we waited for a ride back down the hill. The Granary offers an ecclectic menu with wholesome flavors prepared by a chef whose love for life and food are evident in each of his offerings. JHW

The Granary is located at 1800 Spirit Dance Road in Spring Creek Ranch. $30 and under. 732-8112.

photo by MARY GROSSMAN
The view from The Granary Restaurant, at Spring Creek Ranch.

PERMALINK:
Slim's Pickins: Dining on the Butte | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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