Slim's Pickins: Farm-to-table at Mead Ranch

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

By Tyler Alford

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-While my own attempts at culinary prowess often prove to be amateurish, occasionally one gets to enjoy the work of truly talented chefs, such as I have been invited to experience at the Outstanding in the Field farm-to-table dinner this Thursday at Mead Ranch.

Buried deep in the whiny and self-entitled aspirations of every ‘foodie’ is the fantasy of becoming a true chef himself.

My wishes to command a gourmet kitchen with skill and ease stem from watching, at a young age, the mastery of a good friend and renowned chef Didier Monterant in his home and his kitchen. What truly peaked my interest was watching him in the markets, having his name called out by the fish mongers and produce purveyors as we strolled along the canals of his town in Marans, France. His restaurant, La Porte Verte, has been widely recognized in many travel books, including Frommer’s and guides to French Cuisine. I was promised his first daughter Cecille, but naively declined. When my family visited his home in France, I was allowed to drink wine at the table with the adults (in small amounts); my first taste of Sancerre, the only wine to have with Didier’s food.

Marans is a small harbor town about four miles west of the sea and about 10 miles north of La Rochelle. Needless to say, the culture and cuisine are drastically different from that of Jackson Hole. The similarities though, can be found in the simple pleasures of food. 

Walking around the Saturday farmers market in Town Square gave me nostalgic and wholesome feelings. The farmers and tent attendants chatting and proudly displaying their produce and offerings while sunhats carrying cloth and straw bags weave through collecting their week’s bounty. Jackson’s own market is growing each year, and it is evident in the quality of produce that is being offered. There are more and more great fruits, vegetables and various canned goods to be tempted and inspired by. This year’s wetter-than-average “spring” gave the growing season an early and strong kick. While there weren’t any scallops, fresh mackerel or octopus on display in this open air market, beautiful tomatoes, squashes and leafy greens from across Wyoming, Idaho and other Western states were available. I picked up a handful of various summer vegetables, and had a salad on the porch that afternoon.

From this very same idea of taking farm fresh vegetables directly to the table, Outstanding in the Field started with “farmer dinners” in Santa Cruz, Calif. in 1998. The rolling kitchen is deep into another North American tour that includes Oregon, Texas, Virginia and here in Wyoming,  Jackson Hole’s Mead Ranch. The group, including founder and artist Jim Denevan create these special events with artisan chefs to bring diners closer to the origins of their food and to “honor the local farmers and artisans who cultivate it.” With Niner Wine Estates pouring the wine pairings, and chef Jeff Drew of the Snake River Grill serving as Guest Chef, this promises to be a culinary event that Jackson Hole will never forget. JHW

Tickets for Outstanding in the Field are $200. www.outstandinginthefield.com

photo by JEREMY FENSKE
Diners bask in Outstanding in the Field the ambience. 

PERMALINK:
Slim's Pickins: Farm-to-table at Mead Ranch | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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