Crumbs in my 'Stache: An American chophouse with European trimmings

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-February marks the fourth year Burke’s Chophouse, at 75 S. Glenwood, has served not only steaks, fish and pasta - standard steakhouse fare - but also a few dishes proprietor Michael Burke learned or invented during his formative chef years, spent largely in Northern Europe.

Burke studied culinary arts in England, a nation only recently recognized as a world culinary capital. He then moved around Europe, working as an executive chef opening restaurants for a chain of fine hotels.

Managing the restaurant with wife Laura, Burke has the commanding presence of an unabashed, my-way-or-highway manager who might have rubbed a few associates the wrong way in his time. But also, in other circles, his serious approach to a consistent kitchen has also won him a great deal of mutual respect.

The steaks - a 22 oz bone-in rib-eye ($38), a black angus filet ($32 for 10 oz.; $28 for 6 oz.) wrapped in applewood smoked bacon, and a 12 oz. New York ($31) - are beautifully marbled cuts of grass-fed Midwest Black Angus beef. The whipped mashed potatoes vary nightly from jalapeño cheddar, horseradish Dijon mustard, roast garlic, bacon and Italian herb.

On a recent evening, I saddled up to the bar - a modern take on the grand saloon tradition - for dinner. The interior, with curves to match that of the stone exterior, is decorated in minimalist style, making for one of the most contemporary dining spaces in Jackson Hole; it’s elegant, but also warm.

A trio of visiting gentlemen at the other end sipped electric blue Glacier Martinis. More of an imbiber in the Old World style, I ordered the classic Chop House Martini with Bombay Sapphire. Laura, our server, whom my dinner companions momentarily fell for, mixed it rightly dry, as requested, and speared two blue cheese-stuffed olives into the glass.

For starters, the Shrimp Louisiana ($12), served in a rich sauce of whole grain Dijon mustard finished with a heavy cream and flambéed with vodka was a favorite. Ditto the Chop House Rolls ($10.50), ground beef blended with Asian spices in a flaky pastry, topped with peanut sauce. An English Country Paté ($8.50), is made in-house from a blend of wild game, chicken and pork with apple and herb.

Mr. Burke’s English formal culinary background (though American, his mother was British) is perhaps most appreciated with the Beef Wellington ($36), the crown jewel of the menu, a dish, according to Burke, not found regularly on another valley menu.
Burke’s has been known to see a few valley celebs come through, but locals need not be put off: there’s also the ground filet that is the B.C.H. Burger ($13.50), topped with cheese.

Photo by Andrew Wyatt
The Porterhouse, which Chophouse owner Michael Burke called the quintessential steak.

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Crumbs in my 'Stache: An American chophouse with European trimmings | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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