Crumbs in my 'Stache: A matriarch of muffins

Wednesday, April 02, 2008

By Planet User

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-At first impression, Cat Stephens has an undeniably motherly way about her.

When we met the other evening she unexpectedly presented me with Tupperware containing scallops, asparagus and rice – her dinner leftovers. Later, when I asked her to excuse the rambunctious golden retriever nudging its head into her lap, she said had she known a dog would be around the office, she would have brought it a treat.
For the last few months, Stephens, who is from Washington State and married a valley native, has baked muffins, pies, cakes, cookies and more for Jackson Whole Grocer, the valley’s independently-owned whole foods market.

A self-taught chef, Stephens and her husband bought and ran a bistro before they sold it and returned to the valley around 2000. While living in Washington, Stephens enrolled in cooking classes at the Art Institute of Seattle. And though she describes much of her cooking and baking as “comfort food,” her exposure to the progressive all-natural and fresh food markets in the Seattle area informed her expertise with knowledge of pure, healthier ingredients.

That is to say, for example, that while her pie dough – a paté brisee style – is rich and flakey, it does not contain lard – only butter, flour, sugar and water.
“The secret to a good pie,” she said, “is not a lot of junk; not a lot of sugar, not a lot of odd things.”

In a move to expand Whole Grocer into an all-purpose natural market, owners Bob Arndt and Melanie Harrice are installing a full bakery, which Stephens and another baker will begin using later this month.

In the meantime, working most mornings in Teton Science School’s large institutional kitchen, Stephens turns out muffins, made-to-order cakes, apple crumb, cherry and rhubarb pies and cookies, all of which are either carried at the store’s bakery shelf or can be specially ordered. She can also make vegan desserts and said one customer regularly orders at one time five vegan apple pies, which he freezes and eats one at a time.

Her favorite cupcake, she said, is made from devil’s food cake covered in a sour cream-ganache frosting. “It will put you in a chocolate coma,” she said.
When she returned to live in the valley, Stephens baked at the Four Seasons. Quickly discovering the corporate structure was not for her, she went to work at the Refuge, a now shuttered non-profit that taught young people about working in commercial kitchens. She continues to teach culinary arts and baking for CWC.

Stephens said her niche from the bakery she will soon occupy will provide custom, made-to-order desserts – along with the other stuff – of a quality marks above the “thaw and serve” cakes at Jackson’s chain groceries, while occupying, usually, a spot just below the master artisanship of Cioccolato.

And, yes, the asparagus and sautéed scallops she made were delicious.

Courtesy photo
Top o’ the muffin to you.

PERMALINK:
Crumbs in my 'Stache: A matriarch of muffins | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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