Crumbs in my 'Stache: Von Salad’s first rodeo

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-The middle of April, when the valley is relatively free of tourists and many of the locals have left for spring break, seems like an unlikely time to open a new restaurant in Jackson.

But when it comes to Alex von Salad, the flashy, German-born restaurateur, what seems usual for Jackson Hole can more or less be thrown out the window.
Last week, von Salad opened Café Ponza, a lunch and dinner bistro that operates like a New York-style deli by day, and then turns into an Italian restaurant at night.  
Von Salad said he will open a club just off of Town Square this summer.

Having only relocated to the valley a year ago, von Salad has already done a fair job of making a name for himself. To be fair, Planet Jackson Hole is guilty of contributing to the hype after it featured a March cover story interview with von Salad.

Both he and this paper received a fair amount of criticism for the piece, in which von Salad denounced Jackson’s pizzerias, talked about his collection of designer sunglasses and boasted his resume of managing some of the East Coast’s decadent trend spots. Since then, von Salad claims to have heard more encouraging remarks than those in the xenophobic tone of ‘yer kind ain’t welcome here.’

And the reality is that von Salad, occasionally self-alienating though he may be, does not stand to make it or break it in the valley based on his personal reputation, but by the quality of what he offers.

Café Ponza is in the style of a classic New York sub shop. On the walls, von Salad has hung autographed photos of celebrities he ran into during his days in the ether-thin air of the high-end service industry. Other than that typically un-Jackson Hole thing to do - flaunting celebrity - the place has the feel of a modern European restaurant. Apart from the large swordfish hanging on one wall, von Salad has succeeded in creating an intercontinental feel, one that comes by way of a German sensibility (having lived and traveled in Germany for two years, I feel comfortable making that observation). More empirical evidence: European techno pop music plays at a reasonable level over the house speakers.

I started off with the zuppa di vongole ($10) an Italian-style clam chowder. Using stock instead of cream, the soup was light and tasty. The menu boasts that each bowl is “PACKED with clams.” And it was. I remarked to von Salad that I don’t necessarily need so much meat in my broth.

“I hate clam chowder with, like, three clams,” he replied. “I want it to have 20 clams.”
Next, we had the chicken and pesto pasta in a cream sauce ($17), made with imported Italian gemelli noodles. It was a hearty dish and the gemelli itself was delicious and perfectly al dente, which is how I like it. Observing the slight heaviness of the entrée, I asked von Salad and his chef, Ryan Stover, if it was a authentic Italian-style, or if it could be Italian as interpreted through American, or even German, cuisine.
Von Salad answered with a phrase he has said to me on more than one occasion.
“It’s the real deal,” he said.

Stover, who said he has studied at culinary institutes in Italy, France and Switzerland, was formerly at the now closed Old Yellowstone Garage, a former local favorite. At only 22, he is a bit young as far as running a kitchen and menu development go, but von Salad said he is an up-and-comer worth watching. The two collaborated on the menu, which Stover said he intends to change with each season.

Besides a list of pastas running from $14 to $28, the menu also features a few other entrees, like the Il Davide ($44), a 22-ounce bone-in rib eye steak covered in a spicy pizzaiola red sauce. The dish, to my knowledge, is decidedly unlike any other in the valley. It’s the way the Romans do it, von Salad will tell you. And if you dine with a small group and momentarily befriend the proprietor, there may be a free round of limoncello in it for you.

The restaurant is located at 50 West Broadway, and can be reached at 734-2720.

Photo by andrew wyatt
The fusilli con vongole, a pasta with clams in a lemon broth.

PERMALINK:
Crumbs in my 'Stache: Von Salad’s first rodeo | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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