Crumbs in my 'Stache: Russian traditions: a window to Salavic soul, salty bubbly water

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-Ah, the former Soviet Union: a broad cluster of nations where they grow phenomenally beautiful women, chase vodka with savory foods like smoked herring and pickles, and have a strong sense of community that can take root halfway around the world.

At least two and sometimes all three of those Slavic characteristics can be found at Russian Traditions, a kiosk-style lunch counter and ethnic foods market, located in the Powderhorn Plaza.

Belarusian-bred Natalya Isayeva recently opened Russian Traditions, which serves the permanent and transient communities of Slavic ex-pats, armchair Russophiles and a growing number of gastro-intestinally intrigued non-Slavs.

Situated in former walk-up coffee shop, Russian Traditions is like a typical Russian kiosk. Kiosks are everywhere in the former Soviet Union, from hyper-cosmopolitan St. Petersburg to the far-flung provinces, selling food, drink, printed media and many, many other unimaginable oddities. Here in good ole Jackson Hole, America, however, the cost of commercial space is closer to that found in financially exploding Moscow, ranked in the past few years as the most expensive city in the world.

Isayeva’s son, Anton, co-manages Russian Traditions with his wife, and, at 22, he has his finger on the pulse of the young Easterners who flock to Jackson Hole every summer to experience part of America while helping fill worker needs of a resort community.
“There are about 200 of them here right now,” estimated Isayeva, saying an increasing number of them are from Moldova. “Moldova is such a small country; everyone there say Jackson Hole is the best place.”

With a summer housing shortage compounding the difficulties of adjusting to life in a new country, Isayeva acts like a mother to many of the young seasonal workers, offering them advice, occasional loans and, yes, home cooking.
“They tell me, ‘we miss our mama’s food,’” she said.

One recent afternoon Isayeva, prepared cabbage rolls stuffed with pork, stuffed bell peppers with beef and rice – both under 9 dollars – and blini (like a crepe) with cheese ($2.50).

Lunch aside, Russian Traditions has on its shelves a number of interesting items you should go out of your routine to try. For the sparkling water aficionado, try a bottle of Borjomi ($2.80) from the Georgian resort town of the same name. Served throughout the former Soviet Union (that is, when Russians aren’t boycotting it for political reasons), Borjomi is a naturally salty, bubbly mineral water.

On a hot day, try Kvas, a refreshing, fermented drink made from dark bread.
There are also Russian cookies, jars of red caviar ($17), dark breads and, naturally, pickles and smoked herring.

So go visit Russian Traditions, but also use caution in life, comrades, for the women from those Slavic frontiers can break your heart, the vodka can destroy your liver, and the rising economies of those former Soviet republics can plunder your wallet.

Photo by SPENCER SIMENSEN
Natalya Isayeva offers espresso.

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Crumbs in my 'Stache: Russian traditions: a window to Salavic soul, salty bubbly water | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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