Crumbs in my 'Stache: Pointing it down Couloir

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

By Ben Cannon

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-My dinner date and I arrived in Teton Village last week just in time to hop on the Bridger Gondola for our dinner reservation.  It was the first time either of us had taken the gondola up in the dark, much less eaten at Couloir, the Ski Corp’s premier fine dining restaurant, located on the summit of the gondola.

Passing not a soul on foot in the Villa, we were greeted at the gondola by a nightshift liftie who, despite the quietude, was attentive enough to step out of the shadows and receive us just as we reached the loading dock. We declined his offer for blankets for the ride up, and as we boarded a gondola cabin he magnetically attached a small LED light to mark our car against the dark of night.

We visited Couloir at the gracious invite of manager David Eliason, who I’d met out around town one night recently. Eliason promised me an experience to rival any fine dining experience the valley has to offer. Being carried upward at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, or any storied hill, usually evokes a nice feeling. It was especially gratifying to look down at the diminishing lights of Teton Village, putting into perspective the sense that a relatively quiet scene sits at the base of the valley’s flagship mountain. Or at least that was the case one early February night.

And we were hungry.

Our palates were whetted with an amuse-bouche, a kind of bite-sized hors d’oeuvre brought to each table, which on that evening was foie gras and organic beet salad in a lightly sweet honey verjus dressing. Foie gras, absent even from most of the valley’s finest establishments, would prove to be the star of evening. Seared to absolute mouth watering perfection and served atop French toast with anise-infused syrup, this appetizer course was a heavenly combination of textures with savory and sweet flavors.

Another appetizer, caramelized diver scallops plated with butternut puree and hard cider butter with bits of applewood-smoked bacon, was completely fine, but I was almost wishing I hadn’t agreed to exchange the remaining portion of foie gras for it. The house paired each appetizer with a sweet white wine – the foie gras with a Sauternes and the scallops with a Riesling.

Although I eyed first a grilled duck breast atop a turnip and braided duck hash entrée, and then another titled “Study of Kurobuta Pork,” our knowledgeable and friendly server sold me on the house-smoked buffalo filet, cooked to medium rare. She was right in her recommendation: it was a great piece of meat and presented one of the valley’s, er, “iconic foods” in a new, yet very sensible, light. (I was, by the way, able to reach my fork over to the plate of succulent duck next to me on the table.)

A trio of small desserts followed, including a chocolate morsel with banana ice cream and banana caramel, a malty thyme meringue with lemon curd and – my date’s favorite – a scoop of figgy pudding in a brandy sauce.

Four courses at Couloir (including a choice of salad I couldn’t quite squeeze into this column) are $85. With cocktails and a bottle of wine, this places the total experience, with a fair price for food, into the special occasion zone for me. I would also encourage someone perhaps not quite prepared to fully drop in to this Couloir, to head up at least for a round of drinks to experience the gondola at night. And, if you can, try the food. PJH

Reservations are recommended but not required for dinner at Couloir Restaurant. For drinks, just show up at the Bridger Gondola after 5 p.m. 739-2675.


PERMALINK:
Crumbs in my 'Stache: Pointing it down Couloir | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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