Crumbs in my 'Stache: Stone Table beefs up
Wednesday, April 08, 2009
By Ben Cannon
Jackson Hole, Wyo.-Stone Table, the valley’s favorite (nay, only) Peruvian tapas restaurant, is the kind of niche place that for whatever reasons can slide off the radar screen. Located humbly adjacent a Laundromat on West Broadway, Stone Table is decidedly off the beaten path, yet lacks the more pedestrian appeal that brings the masses to its neighbors – China Town and The Gun Barrel Steak & Game House.
That’s not a necessarily a bad thing, however, because Stone Table isn’t a restaurant particularly suited for a large volume of people. The service can be slow – it is tapas, after all – and historically only one server has worked the front of house, which inevitably can lead to waits. But a finished plate will never wait in the kitchen while a server tends to other tables. Chef Julie Zell does not stand for that, and she is not afraid to bark at the waiter who does not immediately heed the clang of her kitchen bell. To some, the one-sided exchange between a strong-willed chef and a waiter must seem comical; it can make others cringe.
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But Zell continues to make great food, and she and her staff have some plans afoot to help transform Stone Table into an even better restaurant all-around.
For starters, server and barman extraordinaire Tyler Alford recently started working there. Alford, formerly of the White Buffalo Club, for my money is one of the strong servers in the valley. It’s not a popular statement to make, but sub-par service, even at some pricier restaurants, is not that uncommon around here, and many waiters, in my opinion, could take some notes on attentiveness and grace overall. To be honest, if you want to see a surly, entitled food writer, encourage me to write about my observations about crappy service more often. Further, if you want to see me burn a lot of bridges in this small community fast, watch me complain about the service. Oh, I’ll do it all right. Watch me.
Full disclosure: Tyler is also a friend, yet that in no way clouds my objectivity here. In fact, I will not so much as lift a finger to help him whilst he serves me and mine.
I’d be remiss to not mention Stone Table’s other, more established server, the ever-affable Jason Budd. Together, Tyler and J. Budd are a tough service duo to beat. As one observer put it, “They were the guys who in elementary school were already bringing flowers to the girls they liked.”
Next up for Stone Table? Plans to create a gourmet cocktail menu and re-brand the bar area as the Rock Bar. A few new drinks, like the Moscow Mule, an old-fashioned cocktail made with vodka, ginger beer and lime, should be available by the time this review hits newsstands. And more are to come, Tyler said.
These drink additions should compliment some of the the Latin American-themed libations Stone Table already features. Next to drinks like the refreshing Pisco Sour, a frothy blend of Pisco (like a South American brandy) egg white, lime and simple syrup, the new cocktail menu and bar designs could make Stone Table an exotic watering hole for those looking to get off the more trodden path.
The restaurant will shutter at the end of this month for about a six-week shoulder season closing. Meanwhile there’s still time to get there for delicious classics like my favorite, the beet ravioli stuffed with ricotta served in a creamy gorgonzola sauce and balsamic reduction.
Otherwise, look for Stone Table to revamp itself soon. It’s been a gem in the rough for too long; it’s time for it to just become a local gem. PJH
Stone Table is located at 850 W. Broadway. Call 732-0500.
PERMALINK:
Crumbs in my 'Stache: Stone Table beefs up | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining
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