Know Vino

Friday, May 08, 2009

By Tyler Alford

Born in the village of Berceo in the La Rioja region, Gonzalo de Berceo is considered Spain’s earliest known poet. A clergyman of Suso Monastery, Gonzalo’s poems are known for religious narratives and depictions of rioja wine. Miguel Angel Muro pays attention to this history. The Bodegas Muro has been growing and bottling tempranillo, graciano and macabeo grapes for generations from vines averaging 35 years old.

The 2005 Miguel Angel Muro Bujanda is an example of how an historic grape using time-honored traditions in a classically celebrated region can produce an excitingly flavorful wine. Muro Bujanda ($18.95) ­is made from 100-percent crianza tempranillo grapes. Crianza refers to Spain’s youngest age classification of grape, giving Muro Bujanda plenty of spice, sweet plum, and vanilla flavors. tempranillo is often referred as “Spain’s noble” grape, meaning that it is able to make a high-quality wine entirely by itself, and that is grown in different regions of the world. The tempranillo grape was long considered a relation of France’s pinot noir grape, but recent DNA testing has expelled this thought. Tempranillo grapes, as with Muro Bujanda, have a ruby red color and are elegant and earthy. The grape is black with a thick skin giving Muro Bujanda a dry hint to the finish.

The best riojas are typically aged for 4 to 10 years, but all crianza riojas must be aged at least two years to meet the classification. Muro Bujanda is aged in American and French oak barrels for 50 percent each. La Rioja region itself is shielded from the ocean in the north of Spain by the Catabrian Mountains. The range keeps the air cool and drier, and also protects the delicate grapes and vines from the harsh northern wind rolling off the Bay of Biscay. La Rioja soil has significant percentages of chalk, but is clay based, giving further red coloring to the grapes.

Ernest Hemingway is known to have visited La Rioja once a year for at least 25 years, always taking in the elegant red wines and writing about the daring bullfighters.

Try Muro Bujanda with a manchego cheese and some sautéed mushrooms to bring out the earthy scents of clay and chalk in the first nose. Give the wine some time (20 minutes) to open and you will taste the plum and leather flavors followed by an elegant finish of vanilla with a dry hint of oak and tannins.
Salud! to good wine and better company. PJH

Wine enthusiast Tyler Alford believes that most of the decent wines under $10 are obvious. Let us know if you agree at editor@planetjh.com.
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