A new foodie’s first supper

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

By Tyler Alford

Jackson Hole, Wyo.-Gourmand. Epicure. Gluton. Gastronome. Foodie. The list of terms for a food columnist is endless. Now (at least here in Jackson) we can add one more: Crumbs. This column has a big appetite and highly regarded print space to fill. JH Weekly takes a valuable approach to reminding Jackson Hole of its community, its happenings, and its hidden treasures while offering freelancers like yours truly a place to pen. In keeping with these respects, I hereby enter the first of “Slim’s Pickins.” A column not of excess and pompousness, but of shared enjoyment and atmosphere; with the occasional unforeseen food coma.

An upbringing in the South taught me two things about dining: everything tastes better with butter and sugar; and food is meant for comfort. With this in mind, I went with a group of five to what is quickly becoming a staple for contemporary but relaxing atmosphere and food: Trio. Crumbs himself joined us to offer a little coaching for this first installment.

Located close enough to the major attractions in East Jackson, Trio’s Pennsylvania Ave. real estate (on the Monopoly board, that is) draws heavily from Town Square’s foot traffic and Center for the Arts event-goers. The warm and not-overly decorated dining area is complimented by soft yellow lighting and a higher-than-average (read: cozy) thermostat.

The two other men in our group would have normally found a place at the long dining bar looking into the open-air kitchen and brick oven, but we sat as a group in a corner close to the bar service area with an excellent view of the busy, but focused action of the restaurant.

After a round of cocktails including a Jamaican Mule (a variation of the revived Moscow Mule) we shared an order of waffle fries with bleu cheese, black pepper and scallions. An appetizer I had forgotten to crave, the first layer makes quick work as finger food with crispy fries and just the right amount of cheese, but reaching the bottom of the bowl where the cheese has seeped through the waffle holes, utensils are required, depending on your company.

Celebrating the last night of a good friend’s visit, we all ordered heavily from beets salad to my choice, duck prosciutto. The dish was handsomely presented with a bed of arugula and cured duck meat around the edge that was full and flavorful. The amount of greens on the plate, however, detracted from the cured meat, but I only noticed because the duck was so good, and who wouldn’t want more. Shortly after finishing, chef/owner Will Bradoff joined us for a moment. He politely joked with another Spartanburg, S.C. native before returning to the kitchen.

As a main course, I chose the flatiron pan-seared lamb t-bones. The meat was beautifully seared, locking in all the juices and flavor of the meat. Served over a bed of artichoke hearts, brussel sprouts and mushrooms, the earthy vegetables contrasted nicely with the sweet gamey flesh of the New Zealand-raised lamb. A simple but elegant looking plate, the dish was garnished with a single line of whole grain mustard sauce. Where as most chefs might pour this directly over the serving, it is much better as an adornment and self-serve portion.

We ordered a flight of scotches for dessert, each requesting and receiving our favorites prepared our own specific way, probably to the annoyance of our server. We all departed feeling nourished and entertained by the chic space, gracious host, experienced service and excellent food that make Trio an East Jackson gem. JHW

Trio is located at 45 S. Glenwood. $10-32. 734-8038.

photo by MATTHEW IRWIN
Trio’s flatiron pan-seared lamb t-bones.

PERMALINK:
A new foodie’s first supper | Planet JH News Article: Restaurants And Dining

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