On Rock: Hidden gem, right out in the open

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

By Kevin Pusey Jr.

“It’s some of the best climbing in the valley,” a friend reminded me recently of the crags next to Hidden Falls at the mouth of Cascade Canyon in GTNP, and I agreed. It’s a hidden gem. I know the area well.

Most climbers have assumed the routes there are the private playground of Exum guides, but the Park Service actually encourages climbers to explore. “You should go check it out. We’ve done a lot of work up there … don’t let those guides intimidate you. Find a happy guide for some beta,” a climbing ranger recently told me.

Exum primarily uses the area, so it is a very busy spot. Respect to space, and climbers, can still make an enjoyable day for everyone. Best times to climb are early morning, or early evening. There are approximately more than a dozen routes ranging from 5.0 to 5.12. A few summers ago, several of us helped Alex Lowe put up the hardest sport route there on The Impossible Wall, which is the obvious steep wall (After Hours 5.12a/For The Gifted Student 5.12a).

The routes can be on lead or top-rope. There are also the classics: Hole in The Wall, Tree Climb and Open Book routes. Descents are walk-offs, or lowers. Wear a helmet, bring a small rack/quick draws, standard rope and be ultra careful about rock fall. Put food in bear boxes. Be self-sufficient (i.e. first aid/cell phone).

Approach: Hike around Jenny Lake from either direction, or take the boat, and hike to Hidden Falls viewing area. Carefully climb over the buck and rail fence and stay on the trail to the crag above. A hike all the way to the top will give you a good tour, and familiarize you with all the options. For more beta: stop by the Climbing Ranger office at Jenny Lake, or “find a happy guide.” Rock On!       


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On Rock: Hidden gem, right out in the open | Planet JH News Article: Sports & Recreation

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